Crested Creations - Care Sheet

ABOUT CRESTED GECKOS

Crested geckos come from the islands of New Caledonia northeast of Australia. They are an arboreal gecko meaning they live in trees. They have a prehensile tail ( assuming they haven't lost it) and digital lamella toes ( clinging toe pads) that allow them to climb glass. Their bodies have tiny scales and are soft to the touch (like velvet). Crested's come in many colors and morph patterns. Morphs include pinstripe, harlequin, flame, creamsicle, bi-color, tiger, dalmatian, and white-fringed to name a few. New morphs are breed every year it seems. Colors include but not limited too reds, yellows, oranges, greens, whites, browns, and black.

Crested geckos are an excellent first reptile as they are easy to keep. They tolerate handing quite well and don't bite. Well anything with a mouth can bite, but it is very, very rare that they do and if one would bite it wouldn't hurt.

ENCLOSURES

I start my gecko hatching's out in a medium critter keeper or 2 1/2 gallon. I find it easier for them to find their food and water. As they grow I move them up. Juveniles go into a 12"x12"x12" exo-terra or 5 gallon cage. Sub-adults move up to 12"x12"x18" or 10 gallon and adults go in 18"x18"x24" cage. The minimum tank size for adults is a twenty gallon tall. I like to us glass as they tend to hold the humidity better then screen cages. If you like screen cages that is fine but I would mist them twice a day. Enclosures must be cleaned and sanitized (reptile safe sanitizer only) weekly for multiple geckos and bi-weekly for single geckos.

FOOD AND WATER

I feed nothing but the best, GCD (crested gecko diet). Repashy super foods ( food specially formulated for crested geckos) and crickets dusted with calcium. I feed the Repashy (complete diet) twice a week and crickets once a week. Now if you don't like bugs in your house feed them the Repashy three times a week. They MUST have GCD. Provide a small bowl of fresh water and mist the cage nightly. They should be fed just before your turn off the lights as they are nocturnal.

SUBSTRATES/LANDSCAPING

I do feed crickets so I use plain white paper towels as my substrate. You can also use shredded coconut fiber or reptile carpet. For decorations I like to use fake plastic and silk plants as they are easy to clean and disinfect. I also put a nice looking rock and wood pieces for they to climb on. There are some live plants you can use to but be careful in choosing them as some plants can kill them. Ficus benjamina, dracaenas, and hoyas are a few good plants.

LIGHTING/TEMP/HUMIDITY

Crested geckos do not require bright lights as they are nocturnal. I use a ten watt fluorescent bulbs. Their temperature range is from 68 to 72 degrees at night and 73 to 80 degrees in day time. Never exceed 82 degrees. Humidity range they like is 50% to 80%.

KEEPING MORE THEN ONE GECKO

Providing the enclosure is large enough you can keep multiple geckos together. As adults you can keep one male and up to four female together. If you don't want to breed then get all females. Although some males have been kept together it is not recommended as they can and will fight resulting in death for one. Juveniles can be kept together until they can be sexed. At that point the males must be pulled out and put in another set up. Also keep in mind that the more you keep in one enclosure the chances of a tail coming up missing rises.

HANDLING YOUR GECKO

Crested geckos should have a snout to vent length of three inches before you handle as they can get hurt if they jump off of you onto the floor or furniture. Once they reach this size you can start with brief handling's of no more then five minutes once a day. As they get used to you handling them you can increase the time little by little. Use the hand walking technique. Put one hand in front of the other and repeat. NEVER grab the gecko by the tail as they can and will drop their tail. If your gecko drops it's tail it will NOT grow back. If the gecko gets away from you simply put your hand in front of it and it should hop back on your hand.

This is the basic care and requirements for your crested gecko and other Rhacodactylus geckos. Should you ever have any questions feel free to contact me via e-mail and I will be more then happy to help you get your answers. I get all my info from the book called (Rhacodactylus) by Philippe de Vosjoli, Frank fast, and Allen Repashy. Any books by these guys are great books filled with knowledge and facts.